Thursday, November 27, 2008

Week Two: Lauren gets burned.

Not only are my entire face, neck and ears peeling (post-blisters) from the worst sunburn of my life, but I also managed to get carsick, food poisoning, left behind and nearly molested. But aside from all that it´s actually been a phenomenol week.

I arrived at Machu Picchu two days ago, but not before completing a three day trek through the Lares valley. Don´t let the valley part fool you though; the highest peak on our trek was 4,500 meters up. There were many points where the incline was so steep that we were only able to hike about five minutes before stopping to catch our breath. A detailed description of the hike can be found at http://www.sastravelperu.com/english/alternativetreks.html.

The Andes were very impressive, and no picture can really capture what it feels like to be in the middle of these massive mountains. It did remind me of Denali National Park, perhaps because it gave me that same sense of insignificance. It´s easy to forget that humans aren´t everything when you´re in a city surrounded by human-sized things, but it´s all put into perspective when you´re just a dot on this vista of magnificent proportions. One of many dots really, the others consisting of llamas, alpacas, bulls, cows, chickens, boars, horses, sheep and dogs (of which there are breeds of all kinds roaming freely through Cusco).

I was blown away by the people living in these mountains, villagers who are extremely poor and live off of the land. We´d go for miles without seeing anyone and then in the middle of nowhere we´d run into these beautiful grubby children or women in traditional dress who were set up on a blanket with things to sell us. We brought gifts for the kids and I gave away my bottle of painkillers to a family who had lost a child since the last time the guide had visited them. They were all so happy to recieve anything, even something as simple as a yellow balloon, a leftover bowl of soup or a dollar. The whole experience was possibly more overwhelming than Machu Picchu itself. I won´t bore you with all the little details, but suffice to say Machu Picchu is everything it´s cracked up to be and the Inca legacy is fascinating.

Unfortunately, I wasn´t feeling that great while touring the ruins because of the previous day, so I didn´t hike Wayna Picchu, the neighboring mountain. First I had to stay an extra night away from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town) because my train ticket hadn´t been purchased ahead of time, then when I did arrive I became violently ill from something I ate. Worst of all was when a random Peruvian dude who worked at the hostel came into my room at 2:30 in the morning to ask if I wanted company. It was super creepy and I had to spend five minutes convincing him to leave while he was touching my arm and I was retreating under the covers. Needless to say, I reported him the next morning and will be locking my door from now on. I will also never again forget to put on sunscreen, or to remove my card from the ATM machine - two lessons I´ve learned the hard way.

5 comments:

Anonymous said...

hi lauren

whow, you had a exciting week since we last saw. unfortunately also with some bad experiences... :-/

we also had some bad luck with food and lost one or two days, and came back from macchu picchu yesterday evening (friday).

it also seems as if i got your email-adress somehow wrong so that my mail to you came back.

do you still plan to go to arequipa and puno this week? me and siggi will be looking for tickets today and go on to arequipa. would be great to meet you again in arequipa or puno.

i think you have my email?

bye siggi

Anonymous said...

Morning LoLo,
~ Wow! Lauren did get burned! I'd heard some parts of your trouble before I read your blog-entry, which I've been waiting for.
~ So happy that you're safe. Really intense set of trouble & travail; But the writing is quite descriptive. Remember: "Safety First," e.g. doors, sunscreen .. I'll throw ATM cards. - Love, Robert

Melissa Leeanne said...

Good thing you have so many caring readers to advise you of the proper things to do, like wear sunscreen.

Also, apparently eating things that aren't poisonous.

I keep getting the urge to call you up, but I can't because you are out seeing the world. I'm looking forward to your return, but meanwhile enjoy reading about your adventures.

Anonymous said...

Lauren, you are such a great writer, I really look forward to catching up with your South American antics. I saw your Dad at Thanksgiving and pulled your blog up at Damiens house so everyone got to read it. Be safe and take care. Love Heidi

Anonymous said...

Wonderful writing, Lauren. I seem to have to force myself into writing sometimes, I am glad it is flowing for you so easily. Nice drama too! If it makes you feel any better, I had a streak of unluck while on Sumatra, during which I wrecked a motorcycle, shredding a LOT of skin from several strategic locations, picked up a few exotic plant rashes from jungle treks (including one that actually produced orange pus!), and was attacked by leeches. Apparently the anti-coagulant leech sailva works really well on me because some of the spots bled for 8 hours. Oh yeah, I also got washed down a raging river after a monsoon rain on a trek. But I got some nice new souvenir scars...

I am stoked that you are on your way. It's quite strange how you can be constantly around people while traveling and still feel alone. I feel it too, every time I go. It's not people but relationships that you miss, people knowing you and liking you and having history with the people you are around. I can say that it does get better over time, but it never completely goes away. But traveling alone is probably the most empowering thing you can do, and when you get back home, it feels so good to know that you can survive on your own with nothing but a little money and a rucksack.

I just discovered your blog and i am glad you are writing it. Happy trails!

Morris