"Good morning cherry pie..."

Quite possibly the best pickup line I´ve ever received. I almost forgot what it´s like to be in a country where machismo is the norm, but I was quickly reminded as I strolled around Lima on Tuesday in shorts and a tank top. I was definitely the whitest person around, and felt like I was on display for every guy that walked by, be they fourteen or seventy years old. But it was probably 80 degrees and very humid, the kind of weather where you never really feel clean or cool. I was worried that for the rest of the trip I would smell like sweat and sunblock, but now that I´m in Cusco it´s not so bad. It´s much less sticky here, although apparently we´re at the time of year where it might rain some - but only for hours at time, as opposed to days. Coming from the Juneau summer of hell, I´ll take it.

I only had a full day in Lima (although I´ll be back on the 8th), which I used to walk to the beach and read books. I was thrilled to find that dinner - which included a sandwich, salad, smoothie, and gelato - only cost me $5. I flew to Cusco really early this morning and slept till one in the afternoon in an attempt to preempt any altitude sickness I might get from suddenly being 11,600 ft. above sea level. I guess I left Lima at a good time because there´s an international conference going on this week and things will be shut down for security reasons. There were hundreds of guards milling about and it sounds like Bush and his gang have commandeered the entire Marriot hotel.

In Cusco I´m doing a homestay for $90 a week, meals included. I´ve already had my first cup of cocoa tea, which instantly relieved the stuffy nose I´d gotten from the humidity and mold in Lima. I might have to send some home along with a box of all the beautiful handicrafts they have for sale. It´s a veritable bazaar of jewelry, sweaters and artwork, but I´ve forced myself not to buy anything yet since I´m backpacking.

I haven´t really taken any pictures yet, but have no fear, they´re coming. I wanted to take my camera out in the cab this afternoon, where my driver had little postcards decorated in glitter that depicted Jesus lashing himself along with some sort of religious quote. They were hanging from the inside of his windshield via those little suction cups. He also had a plastic handle with a dove in it in place of where the stick shift knob normally is. It is also important to note that driving here is not for the faint at heart. As far as I can tell you just go wherever you damn well please and honk your horn at whoever happens to be in your way. Never mind the white lines on the road or right of way.

So that´s enough observations for now, I don´t want to bore you before anything´s really happened! Next item on the agenda: a four-day hike to Machu Picchu beginning on Saturday.